The Food

I have finished my first Rural Homestay. For the past 12 days, I have been living in Delgerkhaan Soum, Hentii Aimag, which is a bumpy five hour drive away from Ulaanbaatar. Mongolia is divided into 21 Aimags, or proviences, which are then divided into Soums. Since there is so much I want to share about this experience, I thought it best to break it down into topical categories, rather than try to make a chronological account of the past two weeks.

The Food:
Fat is considered the best part of the animal. Even after achieving my personal goal of eating everything put infront of me (except for the intestines...more on that later), I still do not understand why this is. I figure it's the same reason I love snack foods in all of their saturated-fat glory. One thing is for sure - they use every part of the animal - and that's something anyone can respect (however few could imagine what lal that means you have to eat).

Mornings I am served either last nights left overs, reheated by pouring hot tea over it, making a soup, or my favorite - these little dry buscit-like dough balls, sprinkled with surgar and moistened with hot tea. When my host mom makes white tea (tea with about a coup of goat milk), it is a lot like eating cereal.

There is not much difference between lunch and dinner. My favorite meal involves noodles - hommade noodles rolled out of flower and water. For the past several days, we have had a plethera of cabbage, onions, and potatoes mixed into the noodles and the constant bits of meat (and fat). My family gets the veggies from relatives living in the soum who have a garden. I realize this meal is my favorite because it's fried dough and salty potatoes, but I do not appologize for this pleasure. Sometimes, as to not get in the way of my indulgence, I choose to swallow the fatty meat pieces whole, rather than attempt to chew them or worse, offend my family by not eating them at all.

This brings a question I have struggled with in regards to food: Is it worse to consume what disgusts me but is considered the best, thus depriving those who would actually enjoy it? Or to openly reject taht which is valued and prized as not suitable for this American?

I choose the latter as the greater evil - but I welcome any advise.

Although, no advise could prepare me for the meals that would follow the slaughter of a sheep. Not to mention the slaughter of the sheep itself. But that deserves it's own post...

The Move

I have finished my first Rural Homestay. For the past 12 days, I have been living in Delgerkhaan Soum, Hentii Aimag, which is a bumpy five hour drive away from Ulaanbaatar. Mongolia is divided into 21 Aimags, or proviences, which are then divided into Soums. Since there is so much I want to share about this experience, I thought it best to break it down into topical categories, rather than try to make a chronological account of the past two weeks.

Two days after I moved in, it was time for the family (both GERs) to move to follow the heard to better pasture land. I was a little confused as to why they didn't try to tell me it was happening, but as the roof started coming down, I figured it out pretty quickly; I need to pack my things!

I cannot properly describe the moving process, so I will try to post as many pictures as I can. The tear-down process took thirty minutes, that's including loading the truck with one GER. We moved less than 5 KM, but that was enough for even me to tell a difference in the quality of pasture.

As I said, I won't even waste time describing this move - but I do want to comment on the lack of attachment to a specific spot. To me, it was a beautiful, but sad moment when we moved. The whole house was packed up on a truck. I had become attached to the GER, so much had happened to me in it - but there it was, all loaded up on the truck ready to go away. That GER, that spot, meant so much to me, but everyone was just packing it up without giving it a moments pause for reflection on "all of the good times in that home" before moving on! Then, there was even less pause in picking out the new spot for the GER. Not a sigh as the door went up, not a smile as the new home appeared.

To me - this was a process that required closure and acknowledgement of a new beginning, both of which were lacking.

And then I got it.

As all of the furniture was moved back in, as the same items hung from the same sports, as the same wood-chips were used to support the same leaning stove, I realized this was the exact same house. This was the same family, the same positioning (GER doors always face south), the same stuff - this was the same house!
Clearly a Herder feels a strong connection to the land, but on this day I realized that connection was not to a specific plot of land, but rather to the whole of 'mother earth'. Perhaps this is a comment on the left-over socialist policy of government ownership of land. Perhaps as the country shifts to land privatization, this feeling will change and attachment will coincide with ownership, stewardship with self-benefit.

"MINII GER BOL" - My Family

I have finished my first Rural Homestay. For the past 12 days, I have been living in Delgerkhaan Soum, Hentii Aimag, which is a bumpy five hour drive away from Ulaanbaatar. Mongolia is divided into 21 Aimags, or provinces, which are then divided into Soums. Since there is so much I want to share about this experience, I thought it best to break it down into topical categories, rather than try to make a chronological account of the past two weeks.


"GER" directly translated means "house or home." However, the Mongolian word "GER" does not conjure up any of the American images of a home. In fact, I was almost surprised to learn that GER translates to anything at all, rather than to constitute its own new definition. GER is the word for the traditionally nomadic structure that roughly resemble a tepee but with a rounded roof. However, GER is also the word that one uses when talking about an apartment in UB or any structure in which one lives.
To add to this discussion of definition (that resembles one from a Political Theory class), the word GER BOL means "family," not to mention the verb "to marry," which is GER-LEH. After spending only a few days in the country side, with this GER BOL, in this GER, I Understand why the word for 'family' is so connected to the word for 'home.'

For starters, the whole family lives in the one room provided by the GER. For some of my fellow students, this means 7 people. For me, there are only three other students living in the GER - my host father, mother and brother. There is a second GER that moves with mine that houses the second oldest son, his wife and thier one child. My parents have six children, which means at one point this GER was home to 8 people.
The entire contents of the GER include the following: three win-sized beds, 1 table, 1 stove, 1 cupboard for kitchen ware, 1 cupboard for blankets and DELLS, one trunk on which sits the pieces to make it an altar. There is a tin bucket holding the dried cattle dung which is the source of fuel for the stove's fire (there are no trees around), and a car battery to power the single, high-efficiency light bulb.
Reading over this incomplete list, I know it sounds quaint and attractively simple, but it's truly more than enough.

At first, it was almost a game of mine to guess from where the next object would appear. The socks came out from one of the many layers of rugs placed on the wood board of a mattress. Some books and a calender are kept there as well. The giant bowl goes under the bed. The knife from the blanket cupboard. The cutting board came from behind the bed; I still don't know where the sewing machine is kept because I am never there when it is revealed or hidden away again. This lifestyle gives new meaning to the quote, "A place for everything, everything in its place."

Everything serves multiple purposes. During meal time, the beds become counter tops. The soup bowl, after its contents have been eaten, is filled with water and becomes the washing bowl. We use only one bowl to eat, and often without a fork. After we finish the food contents, we fill it with hot tea that both hydrates us and washes the bowl. Many times it is simply placed back onto the shelf after this without further washing.

I am very aware of how much space my single backpack takes up. Every morning, I re-stuff my sleeping bag into its stuffsack and place my sleeping pad under the rug on the bed. I try to hid things under the bed and push my personal things aside so that my bed, too, serves the double purpose as a bench for visitors throughout the day.
The family is wonderful. Despite our language barrier, I communicate well with them and always seem to be the butt of a joke I don't understand. The parents are mid 50s, my host brother is the same age as me. My family has a large heard of goats and sheep. They have about ten stallions, which could mean around 50 or 60 horses (they won't give you an exact number, though there's no doubt in my mind they know, because it is considered bad luck to count your animals). There are also several yak that make an appearance every now and then.

The past seven days and the next three are considered the orientation part of the program. During this time the 8 students are living together in a hotel ("Anoo-Jiin") and attending intensive language class every day. We have running watter, however a main hot-water pipe is being replaced in UB, leaving half of the city (including us) without hot water.

Now, I was not expecting a shower to be apart of my daily routine in Mongolia, however it brings up an important misconception with which I entered this country. I planned to be a back-packer for the entirety of this study abroad. I figured the less I brought, the better, and certainly did not waste precious space on luxury items concerned with appearance. I planned to shower little, live out of hiking boots, and trust that those I meet along the way would be living (or at least respecting) the same lifestyle.

Wrong.

So far.

Ulaanbaatar residence are nothing short of obsessed with appearance. While it is definitely a different tone than that of USA (less consumerism, more respect), it is just as unforgiving. At this point, I am so thankful that my mom snuck a suit into my suitcase as I was walking out the door.

On the same note, I am surprised by the weather here. Again, the two sleeveless shirts I almost talked myself out of wearing have been my only appropriate clothing for the warm weather. Obviously, that will change soon enough!

Language class has been the most intense experience so far, however I feel it is the most important thing I can be doing in these first few days. I am also lucky to be with a group of people who are completely dedicated to learning the language. Apparently Mongolian has been labeled the most difficult language to learn...


Our classroom is really a two-story apartment type building. It is a good 30 minute walk from our hotel. Class usually starts at 9. We have a tea break around 10:40am, lunch at noon (cooked by an SIT employee in our building's kitchen...this is definitely the best meal of the day) and then more class. We have had several lecturers come who give a presentation on various topics.


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6 Days ago, we went to the SOS International clinic in UB. I have not decided exactly what I think about this international, for-profit health clinic group, but it the medical facility that we will use while in UB. We had a briefing from the director about the services available to us and general advice on staying well in Mongolia.

While there, I really realized the prevalence of rabies and the serious risk of contracting it in the country side, and not being able to receive medical attention fast enough to do something about it.

Three of us, including me, had not received the vaccination for rabies in the US. I remember deciding not to when I realized the cost would be over 900USD. After hearing this talk, we all decided to get the three dose vaccination from this clinic. The good thing about it all is that it will cost less than 300USD here, since the vaccine is regularly stocked in this part of the world.

Mongolian Arrival

I am at the American Center for Montolian Studies in UB. Since I don't have much time, I am just checking in to say that I am here! The first week we are staying at a hotel. Tomorrow I start intensive Mongolian language classes. All of the people in the group are great. Only one of the "teachers" speaks fluent English, so I am already dedicated to learning the language as best I can (apparently it is ranked one of the hardest to learn).

I registered to be a member of this center. It seems to give you access to other scholars working in Mongolia - not to mention internet access and the most comprehensive English library on Mongolian Studies.

The weather is warm! All is well!

More soon!

A Schedule

This is the most thorough schedule at this time! Sent to me by SIT:

The schedule described below may be changed depending on local conditions, at the time, particularly weather conditions. It is presented here as the working plan as of today.

From the airport we will travel to Ulaanbaatar (UB) for our Orientation Seminar. This will last a week and will include discussions about the various program components, the academic requirements, and logistics. During this time, we will begin our Fieldwork Studies Seminar (FSS) and you will also be introduced to your language instructors and begin formal study of the Mongolian language. You will also meet your UB host families and begin your urban homestay.

Following our orientation in UB we will drive to Delgerkhaan soum of Hentii, considered one of the most beautiful provinces in Mongolia due to its pristine rivers, taiga forests and wide steppes. Delgerkhaan, the place of Chinggis Khan’s Aurag palace, is where you will live with homestay families of herders and help them during the busy winter preparation season. During this period you will continue to receive language classes from your language instructors and also be required to master nomadic skills and herding songs. You will also be required to collect some oral history from informants in the field and write your first paper.

Following our excursion, we will return to UB for a week and begin the first part of our Thematic Seminars conducted by resident scholars and field specialists. At this time, you will meet and move to your UB host families, and come to school five-six times a week to resume a schedule of daily language classes, excursions and lectures.

The first part of our Thematic Seminar will culminate in an educational excursion through the Hovsgol lake region, the home of several ethnic groups including the nomadic Darkhads and reindeer herders, the Tsaatan/Dukha people. These people are also renowned for their active practices of shamanism. If time permits, we will also try to visit the lake of Hovsgol.
After the Hovsgol excursion, you will return to UB and attend the second part of Thematic Seminar, resuming the schedule of language classes and lectures. During this time you will also be required to finalize your Independent Study Project (ISP) proposals.

The ISP is a month-long segment in which you conduct original fieldwork on a specific topic. As your Academic Director, I will help you to individually design your ISP topics as well as to find resources and contacts. This ISP period is a culmination of the initial three courses - Intensive Language, Culture & Development Seminar, and the Field Study Seminar. Projects might include topics about traditional games, falconry, the folklore of Mongolia’s ethnic groups, sacred landscapes, ‘houmi’ throat-singing, religious dance, Mongolia’s international relations, human trafficking, poverty alleviation programs or revival of traditional medicine. In the past, students have also investigated subjects from shamanism to the role of a specific NGO in Mongolia’s nascent democracy. The possibilities are only limited by your own imagination.

The final week of the program is an important period for assessment of both academic growth and personal change over the course of the semester. During this final evaluation week, each of you will orally present your Independent Study Projects, conduct an overall program evaluation and start to think about and prepare for your re- entry to the U.S.
The program is designed to expose you to as many diverse elements of Mongolian culture as possible. Education is the responsibility of the individual, not the mandate of the teacher. Therefore, you will be expected to motivate yourself to make the most of what can be a truly stimulating experience.

Program Overview

This is what the School for International Training (SIT) has to say about the program:

The SIT Study Abroad Mongolia School building occupies a semi-detached house located in Bayanzurkh District, in the eastern part of Ulaanbaatar (UB). The program base has been established to give students a common area for both formal and informal meetings, regular classes and as a central office and resource space for program participants and staff. It is comprised of several rooms for small group classes and whole group lectures. The second floor of the building is occupied with program offices.

It will take you approximately half an hour to walk from the hotel you will be staying at to class. UB has regularly running public buses and trolleybuses. Bus routes run almost everywhere in the UB area. There are also private passenger vans running along the public bus routes.

Our daily schedule is busy, beginning at 9 a.m. and continuing to 3-4 p.m. Days usually start with a pair of language classes that are followed by lectures or site visits.

Our program focuses on “nomadic culture and globalization” in Mongolia. Through this guiding theme, we will investigate the process by which traditional and historical culture adjusts and manages the problems and trends of contemporary fast-track development. Mongolia is a relatively small developing country, which has been thrust onto the world stage politically, economically and socially. This is crucial during a time when the U.S., World Bank, ADB, UN, etc. are becoming ever more effective in domestic workings of countries and when cultural and bio-diversity is threatened by commercial investment.
Mongolia’s belated entrance on the modern global scene means both that its development process is fairly young and that the country as a whole is unusually self- conscious about which trends it sets into action. Mongolia aims to develop balanced policies open to Western involvement with strong nationalism spreading over a vast countryside and rooted in a culture that is still pastoral.

Among the temperate zones of the Northern Hemisphere, few nations compare to Mongolia in the size, diversity, and health of its natural ecosystems. Covering 1.564 million square kilometers, Mongolia encompasses an area larger than Britain, France, Germany and Italy combined. It is the seventh largest country in Asia and one of the largest land-locked countries in the world. With only 2.7 million inhabitants, its population density, 1.7 persons per sq. kilometer, is the lowest in Asia.
Although threatened by commercial exploitation, Mongolia still contains relatively intact examples of Asia’s deserts, steppe forests, mountains, and rare species of wild creatures and plants that inhabit them. The traditional culture of the semi-nomadic herder still thrives, as one-third of the country’s people still move by horse and camel, herding their sheep, cattle, and goats through an annual cycle of pastures, governed by the limits of natural systems. To consider culture within Mongolia, one must consider the natural surrounding environment. The two are interdependent, continually needing to adapt to the needs and demands of each other.

Our program will explore the degree to which local cultures have been shaped by the geographic and environmental features of their surrounding landscapes, as well as how the ever-increasing demands of a developing country and growing population have put pressure on the abundance and availability of natural resources. The country now faces the challenge of developing the nation’s infrastructure and economy while at the same time protecting the natural environment.